Meaty strips of steer score big points at Elway’s Downtown, the splashy signature restaurant of the Ritz-Carlton hotel. A second outpost resides at Belleview Station, just south of central Denver. The eclectic menu also proffers thick-cut lamb chops, barbecued shrimp and veal osso buco ravioli, sides of creamed spinach, sweet potato casserole and roasted cremini mushrooms and desserts that include white chocolate bread pudding and crème brûlée. The broiled steaks, delivered on plates that sputter with butter, hit their mark, none more so than the tomahawk ribeye-40 ounces of marbled steer-carved tableside. Catering to amorous couples and business crowds in suits, the 10,000-square-foot space sizzles with moneyed glitz and modern elegance, its white tablecloths, towering wine wall, artwork and creamy white banquettes the perfect foil for an indulgent dinner. Its proximity to the 16th Street Mall and the Colorado Convention Center makes Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse an ideal place to dive headfirst into the profoundly beef-centric menu. The filet mignon flight-4 ounces each of prime, Angus and grass-fed specimens-pumps plenty of testosterone through your veins. Ruby-colored bricks of beef are the main attraction, but there’s so much more to applaud: exemplary oak-fired carrots with herbed yogurt, for example, and the smoke-scented octopus paired with a white bean and celery salad, Spanish chorizo and a roasted red pepper sauce.
There’s the bravado of wood-fired grills, charcuterie plates, a glistening raw bar, an exhilarating wine syllabus that stretches far and wide, lovely surrounds that favor a feminine touch and a voyeuristic chef’s counter that overlooks the industrious kitchen. Downtown Denver lays claim to more than a few steakhouses, but Guard and Grace isn't your typical shrine to steer.
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